Dinner at Marin Sun Farms: Quince Restaurant's Staff Shines in the Fog

As a thank-you gesture for all I'd done for five years for Outstanding in the Field (farm dinners and tours), I was invited to attend a farm dinner this year. I requested the July 10 event in Pt. Reyes, as the guest chef was to be Michael Tusk of Quince Restaurant in San Francisco. I'd heard so many wonderful things about his restaurant, and apparently so had everyone else. The meal was sold out almost instantaneously. Luckily, last minute cancellations resulted in a phone call on Saturday: would we like to come to the dinner in Marin?

We would indeed. Sweet! On Sunday afternoon, we headed up the coast and into the  hills of Marin County, seeking Marin Sun Farms. I knew a little about them from my buddy, Steve Sando (aka "Rancho Gordo), who'd attended the Terra Madre event last autumn with David Evans (pictured here in the orange shirt), the rancher who was raising true grass-fed cattle. But "a little" meant very little, so I had no expectations about the meal.

When we neared the summit of whatever hill Marin Sun Farms is perched on, the sun disappeared behind the thick rolling coastal fog...the kind that chases you. Out came the sweaters and shawls.

There is much more to a farm dinner that can ever be written about: I always learn so much. The most compelling piece of information I heard on this day was that only about 20% of the food that farms produce makes it to the table. For cosmetic reasons, much of it goes to waste. Marin Organic was working with restaurants and farmers to redirect food that would otherwise go to waste to hungry families. (The dinner benefitted their organization.)

I took lots of pictures, as usual--I felt like I was working again. The whole setting was surreal: the fog that enveloped the hilltop site gave the illusion that the outdoor kitchen was perched on the very edge of the world. A very long table stretched along a crest that we were assured looked over a lagoon and the ocean. You couldn't prove it by me, though. I saw nothing of the kind.

We'd begun the tour about a quarter mile from the site, and were served Hog Island oysters (kumamotos) with Handley Cellars sauvignon blanc. It was a perfect combo: the unadorned oysters had only their own chilly brine, that sexy oceany salty liquid I love so much.

Once at the table, staff quickly brought our first courses: roasted vegetables first, and a fish course soon after. The vegetables had come from County Line Harvest Farm in Petaluma. They were gorgeous in every aspect: colorful, fresh, perfectly prepared. They said "farm." And they said, "Eat me." We did.

The fish plate had roasted sardines and a halibut sashimi, with horseradish kicky sauce. With both of these courses, we were served chardonnay that was pronounced "unique" by a few people at the table who otherwise did not care for chardonnay. They loved it. I did, too, but I have no problems loving chardonnay.

The chef surprised us with an off-menu item: apparently someone had delivered a ton of haricot verts to him that morning, and they were irresistible. Thank God. These were the best green beans ever, lightly cooked with Cowgirl Cremery crème fraîche, shallots, and lemon verbena. I didn't take a photo, alas.

The main course arrived: David Evans' own beef, served with wild arugula and au jus. It was unanimous at our section of the table (ten people or so) that this was the best beef we'd ever had. And then they brought us the bones to gnaw (we were wishing for a fireplace to toss them into, but only for the warmth factor). Also served: roasted turnips and potatoes (no photo). These were served with a pinot noir.

Next came a cheese and fig platter. Cowgirl Creamery provided Red Hawk and Mt. Tam cheeses, and the figs came from Rick and Kristie Knoll at Knoll Tairwa'. This was quickly followed with a berry tart. Not just "a berry tart" but a berry tart that was an act of worship for me, providing the essence of summer onto our plates. It was superb.

The entire meal was superb. It had a special spirit that I can attribute to the chef, whose eyes glow with light and warmth. I assume he's not an ass in the kitchen, because the staff exuded competence and enjoyment of their work.

Ten on a scale of one to ten. One of the few perfect-in-every-course farm dinners I've had the pleasure to attend. It was lovely to sit with Paul and Leslie Cocking (Paul's my client who owns Gabriella Cafe), and to meet some very funny people from San Francisco, too.

They're doing something special at Quince, that is easy to see. The courses reminded me very much of how chef Robert Cubberly's food was so simple, but completely tuned in to the vegetables and ingredients at hand. The menu really honored the work of the farmer and the rancher. Who could ask more from their food than this?

I walked the quarter mile back to our car alone, in the nearing twilight. No cell phone. No conversation. Just a misty marsh, rolling fog, and brown hills covered in scrub. Cows appeared like friendly apparitions. A single white egret floated away. I felt so relieved of the congestion of my own life.

I slept very contentedly.

Thought for the day: "Everyone gets so much information all day long that they lose their common sense." — Gertrude Stein
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LINKS
Quince Restaurant
Marin Sun Farms
Handley Cellars
Hog Island Oyster Company
Marin Organic
Pt. Reyes National Seashore
Knoll Tairwa' Organics
Outstanding in the Field

Comments

[Farmgirl]

Wow! Great post.
Every single part of that evening sounds absolutely divine. I grew up in Marin and happen to think the Pt. Reyes area is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Thank you so much for sharing your experience.

Thank you, too, for leaving the nice comment on my blog (including happy birthday wishes!). I was so flattered by your compliments on my photography--what a great b'day gift. Thanks, too, for adding my blog to your links list.

I tell everyone about Small Farms. Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!

[Helen Williams]

Hi Tana,

Nice commentary and photos of the dinner. You captured it well. The photo of the veggies is especially nice. I've been looking for photos on the OITF website, but alas, none so far appear. Thanks for letting me relive that fab dinner of one week ago while I'm in the office this Sunday having a lot less fun.

Helen

[Tana Butler]

Aw, Helen, you just can't be working on Sundays. That ain't right!

Farmgirl, thanks for visiting and thanks for spreading the word. The dinner was just so wonderful. The more I think about it, the more it grows on me.